As each region has its own traditional pattern,
batiks are commonly distinguished by the region they originated in, such as
batik Solo, batik Pekalongan, and batik Madura. Batiks from Java can be
distinguished by their general pattern and colours into batik pedalaman (inland
batik) or batik pesisir (coastal batik). Batiks which do not fall neatly into
one of these two categories are only referred to by their region. A mapping of
batik designs from all places in Indonesia depicts the similarities and
reflects cultural assimilation within batik designs.
Javanese Batik
Inland Batik
Inland batik or batik kraton (Javanese court batik)
is the oldest form of batik tradition known in Java. Inland batik has earthy
colour such as black, indigo, brown, and sogan (brown-yellow colour made from
the tree Peltophorum pterocarpum), sometimes against a white background, with
symbolic patterns that are mostly free from outside influence. Certain patterns
are reserved for royalty, while other are worn on specific occasions. At a Javanese
wedding for example, the bride wears specific patterns at each stage of the
ceremony. Noted inland batiks are produced in Solo and Jogjakarta, cities
traditionally regarded as the centre of Javanese culture. Batik Solo typically
has sogan background and is preserved by the Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran Court.
Batik Jogja typically has white background and is preserved by the Yogyakarta
Sultanate and Pakualaman Court.
Coastal Batik
Coastal batik is produced in several areas of
northern Java and Madura. In contrast to inland batik, coastal batiks have
vibrant colours and patterns inspired by a wide range of cultures as a
consequence of maritime trading. Recurring motifs include European flower
bouquets, Chinese phoenix, and Persian peacocks. Noted coastal batiks are
produced in Pekalongan, Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban, and Madura. Pekalongan has the
most active batik industry.
A notable sub-type of coastal batik called Jawa
Hokokai is not attributed to a particular region. During the Japanese
occupation of Indonesia in early 1940, the batik industry greatly declined due
to material shortages. The workshops funded by the Japanese however were able
to produce extremely fine batiks called Jawa Hokokai. Common motifs of Hokokai
includes Japanese cherry blossoms, butterflies, and chrysanthemums.
Another coastal batik called tiga negeri (batik of
three lands) is attributed to three regions: Lasem, Pekalongan, and Solo, where
the batik would be dipped in red, blue, and sogan dyes respectively. As of
1980, batik tiga negeri was only produced in one city.
Sundanese Batik
Sundanese or Priangan Batik is the term for batik
from the Priangan region of West Java and Banten. Although Priangan batiks can
use a wide range of colours, a preference for indigo is seen in some of its
variants. Natural indigo dye made from Indigofera is among the oldest known
dyes in Java, and its local name tarum has lent its name to the Citarum river
and the Tarumanagara kingdom, which suggests that ancient West Java was once a
major producer of natural indigo. Noted Priangan batik is produced in Ciamis,
Garut, and Tasikmalaya. Other traditions include Batik Kuningan influenced by
batik Cirebon, batik Banten that developed quite independently, and an older
tradition of batik Baduy.
Batik Banten employs bright pastel colours and
represents a revival of a lost art from the Sultanate of Banten, rediscovered
through archaeological work during 2002–2004. Twelve motifs from locations such
as Surosowan and several other places have been identified.
Batik Baduy only employs indigo colour in shades
ranged from bluish black to deep blue. It is traditionally worn as iket, a type
of Sundanese headress similar to Balinese udeng, by Outer Baduy people of Lebak
Regency, Banten.
Sumatran Batik
Trade relations between the Melayu Kingdom in Jambi
and Javanese coastal cities have thrived since the 13th century. Therefore,
coastal batik from northern Java probably influenced Jambi. In 1875, Haji
Mahibat from Central Java revived the declining batik industry in Jambi. The
village of Mudung Laut in Pelayangan district is known for producing batik
Jambi. Batik Jambi, as well as Javanese batik, influenced the Malaysian batik.
The Minangkabau people also produce batik called
batiak tanah liek (clay batik), which use clay as dye for the fabric. The
fabric is immersed in clay for more than 1 day and later designed with motifs
of animal and flora. The Batik from Bengkulu, a city on west coast of Sumatra,
is called Batik Besurek, which literary means "batik with letters" as
they draw inspiration from Arabic calligraphy.
Balinese Batik
Batik making in the island of Bali is relatively new, but a fast-growing industry. Many patterns are inspired by local designs, which are favoured by the local Balinese and domestic tourists. Objects from nature such as frangipani and hibiscus flowers, birds or fishes, and daily activities such as Balinese dancer and ngaben processions or religious and mythological creatures such as barong, kala and winged lion are common. Modern batik artists express themselves freely in a wide range of subjects.
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