Batik lawasan merupakan batik yang
bermotif tua/kuno/klasik. Batik lawasan berasal dari bahasa jawa “Batik” dan
“Lawasan” dari kata lawas (tua). Batik
lawasan juga dikenal dengan nama “Batik Lasem”. Batik Lawasan atau batik lasem
mengacu pada batik yang berusia tua dengan motif klasik. Karena banyak pecinta batik
lawasan, pengrajin membuat batik baru terkesan lama yaitu bladus atau lusuh
karena sudah berusia tua. Untuk membuat batik terkesan lawas, biasanya
pengrajin membuat batik lawasan (tiruan) berwarna hitam, untuk
mengesankan warna yang agak pudar, anda bisa menjemurnya sampai terkena sinar
matahari setelah mencelupkan pada pewarna napthol (itu berarti sebelum
dimasukkan ke garam). Selain itu, untuk warna coklat, pada saat
pewarnaan, dicampur warna napthol coklat dengan warna indigosol abu-abu atau
indigosol coklat. Untuk efek yang lebih lagi, anda bisa menggunakan obat kimia
bernama PK. Produk akhirnya berupa kain berefek beda-beda, namun tetap
menampakkan efek lawasan.
Kamis, 19 Januari 2017
Batik Remukan atau
biasa disebut dengan Batik Wonogiren berasal dari Sentra Batik di daerah
Kecamatan Tirtomoyo Wonogiri Jawa Tengah. Batik Wonogiren sudah ada sejak tahun
1910 dimana sejak adanya pejabat Keraton yang memberikan tugas kepada para abdi
dalem Keraton Mangkunegaran Surakarta untuk bertugas di daerah Tirtomoyo
Wonogiri Jawa Tengah.
Batik Wonogiren
dibuat dengan cara unik dalam hal pewarnaan Batik, yaitu dengan memberikan efek
remetan atau pecahan malam (Wax).Cara ini akan menghasilkan rembesan dari
remukan malam yang menempel pada kain Batik Tulis. Karena keunikan pembuatan
nya inilah, Batik Wonogiren sangat cocok untuk digunakan sebagai Baju Batik
Sarimbit, seragam Batik atau Baju Batik Keluarga. Batik Wonogiren memiliki
karakteristik khusus dalam kreasi corak Batiknya, yakni : Dasaran (kuning
kecoklatan), corak Bledak, Sekaran (lukisan Bunga) dan Babaran (guratan pecah).
WONOGIREN
PREMIUM
Batik Indigo menonjolkan kesan warna biru nila kuat yang teduh, seperti warna yang dipeoleh dari hasil fermentasi daun nila selama kurun waktu tertentu. Warna biru nila di pakai untuk mewarnai pakaian Raja atau atau Kaisar atau Pangeran dengan maksud untuk menunjukkan Kekuasaan, Kepemimpinan, Kesetiaan dan Kebijaksanaan seorang penguasa.
Encim adalah kata serapan
dari bahasa tiong hoa. Sebenarnya di kamus bahasa tiong hoa tidak ada kata
encim. Kata encim sendiri berasal dari kata cici yaitu panggilan untuk kakak
perempuan suku tiong hoa. Karena pergaulan dengan pribumi jawa kata cici ini berubah
kata menjadi encim yang bisa di simpulkan bermakna perempuan cina. Begitulan
sejarah kata encim yang kemudian lazim pada zaman dahulu pribumi jawa menyebut
wanita tiong hoa dengan sebutan encim.
Batik Jarik Dagel adalah jenis batik semi tulis dengan warna yang menyerupai Jarik Tulis dengan proses batik pola printing dilanjutkan dengan pembatikan menggunakan malam, sehingga warna yang dihasilkan begitu jelas dan kuat. Jarik dagel super memberkan keistimewaan yakni dari segi bahan dan motif yang special menyerupai motif tulis. Dipadukan dengan atas yakni jumputan menjadikan tampilan Anda makin manis dan tetap Njawani
Selasa, 17 Januari 2017
Solo is one of the cities that were in the region
of the central part of Java island, with is the island of Java also part of one
of the biggest islands in the country of Indonesia.
Surakarta (often called Solo and less commonly Sala) is a city in
Central Java. The 46 km2 city adjoins Karanganyar Regency and Boyolali Regency
to the north, Karanganyar Regency and Sukoharjo Regency to the east and west,
and Sukoharjo Regency to the south. On the eastern side of Solo lies Solo River
(Bengawan Solo). Its built-up (or metro) area made of Surakarta Municipality
and 59 districts spread on 7 regencies was home to 3,649,254 inhabitants as of
2010 census.
Surakarta is the birthplace of the current President of Indonesia, Joko
Widodo. He served as Mayor of Surakarta from 2005 to 2012.
The water sources for Surakarta are in the valley
of Merapi, a total of 19 locations, with a capacity of 3,404 l/second. The average
source water height is 800–1,200 m above sea level. In 1890–1927 there were
only 12 wells in Surakarta. Today, underground water wells in 23 locations
produce about 45 l/second.
In
March 2006, Surakarta's state water company (PDAM) had a production capacity of
865.02 l/second: from Cokrotulung, Klaten, 27 km from Solo, 387 l/s; and from
26 deep wells, with a total capacity of 478,02 l/second. The total reservoir
capacity is 9,140 m3 and can serve 55,22% of the population.
One main tourist attraction of Surakarta is the
Keraton Surakarta, the palace of Susuhunan Pakubuwono, also the Princely
Javanese court of Mangkunegaran. Pasar Gede market is often visited by
tourists, mostly for its unique architecture and fame as the biggest
traditional market in the Solo area. The Pasar Klewer is famous for its batiks
in all prices and qualities, while the Pasar Triwindhu located near
Mangkunegaran palace specialises in antiques.
Within Surakarta tourists can also use the Jaladara old steam train which was launched on in September 2009 for 5.6 km connecting Purwosari Station and City (Sangkrah) Station. In 2011 there were 60 trips and in 2012 will be 80 trips.
Taman Sriwedari is a popular
local entertainment park featuring a children's playground, dangdut music
performance and Wayang Wong traditional Javanese dance performance almost every
night. Near the park is Radyapustaka Museum, one of the oldest museums in
Indonesia, with a collection of Javanese cultural artefacts. The traditional batik
village of Laweyan and Kampung Batik Kauman, located in the southwest part of
the city and the city centre respectively, are famous for producing fine
quality Javanese batik.
Solo city
is a center of batik cloth producers renowned for quality and quality assured.
Various types of batik with a variety of designs and color patterns of batik
cloth produced by the craftsmen of the town solo batik cloth, was in
all regions of Indonesia and even to some areas outside Indonesian state.
Batik solo use best quality fabric decorated
with carvings and batik design, making each person wearing batik clothes solo
feel comfortable, confident and authoritative. Batik solo with different styles
of ornaments carvings and batik design with dazzling colors makes everyone who
wears Batik Solo feel passionately alive and passionate.
As each region has its own traditional pattern,
batiks are commonly distinguished by the region they originated in, such as
batik Solo, batik Pekalongan, and batik Madura. Batiks from Java can be
distinguished by their general pattern and colours into batik pedalaman (inland
batik) or batik pesisir (coastal batik). Batiks which do not fall neatly into
one of these two categories are only referred to by their region. A mapping of
batik designs from all places in Indonesia depicts the similarities and
reflects cultural assimilation within batik designs.
Javanese Batik
Inland Batik
Inland batik or batik kraton (Javanese court batik)
is the oldest form of batik tradition known in Java. Inland batik has earthy
colour such as black, indigo, brown, and sogan (brown-yellow colour made from
the tree Peltophorum pterocarpum), sometimes against a white background, with
symbolic patterns that are mostly free from outside influence. Certain patterns
are reserved for royalty, while other are worn on specific occasions. At a Javanese
wedding for example, the bride wears specific patterns at each stage of the
ceremony. Noted inland batiks are produced in Solo and Jogjakarta, cities
traditionally regarded as the centre of Javanese culture. Batik Solo typically
has sogan background and is preserved by the Susuhunan and Mangkunegaran Court.
Batik Jogja typically has white background and is preserved by the Yogyakarta
Sultanate and Pakualaman Court.
Coastal Batik
Coastal batik is produced in several areas of
northern Java and Madura. In contrast to inland batik, coastal batiks have
vibrant colours and patterns inspired by a wide range of cultures as a
consequence of maritime trading. Recurring motifs include European flower
bouquets, Chinese phoenix, and Persian peacocks. Noted coastal batiks are
produced in Pekalongan, Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban, and Madura. Pekalongan has the
most active batik industry.
A notable sub-type of coastal batik called Jawa
Hokokai is not attributed to a particular region. During the Japanese
occupation of Indonesia in early 1940, the batik industry greatly declined due
to material shortages. The workshops funded by the Japanese however were able
to produce extremely fine batiks called Jawa Hokokai. Common motifs of Hokokai
includes Japanese cherry blossoms, butterflies, and chrysanthemums.
Another coastal batik called tiga negeri (batik of
three lands) is attributed to three regions: Lasem, Pekalongan, and Solo, where
the batik would be dipped in red, blue, and sogan dyes respectively. As of
1980, batik tiga negeri was only produced in one city.
Sundanese Batik
Sundanese or Priangan Batik is the term for batik
from the Priangan region of West Java and Banten. Although Priangan batiks can
use a wide range of colours, a preference for indigo is seen in some of its
variants. Natural indigo dye made from Indigofera is among the oldest known
dyes in Java, and its local name tarum has lent its name to the Citarum river
and the Tarumanagara kingdom, which suggests that ancient West Java was once a
major producer of natural indigo. Noted Priangan batik is produced in Ciamis,
Garut, and Tasikmalaya. Other traditions include Batik Kuningan influenced by
batik Cirebon, batik Banten that developed quite independently, and an older
tradition of batik Baduy.
Batik Banten employs bright pastel colours and
represents a revival of a lost art from the Sultanate of Banten, rediscovered
through archaeological work during 2002–2004. Twelve motifs from locations such
as Surosowan and several other places have been identified.
Batik Baduy only employs indigo colour in shades
ranged from bluish black to deep blue. It is traditionally worn as iket, a type
of Sundanese headress similar to Balinese udeng, by Outer Baduy people of Lebak
Regency, Banten.
Sumatran Batik
Trade relations between the Melayu Kingdom in Jambi
and Javanese coastal cities have thrived since the 13th century. Therefore,
coastal batik from northern Java probably influenced Jambi. In 1875, Haji
Mahibat from Central Java revived the declining batik industry in Jambi. The
village of Mudung Laut in Pelayangan district is known for producing batik
Jambi. Batik Jambi, as well as Javanese batik, influenced the Malaysian batik.
The Minangkabau people also produce batik called
batiak tanah liek (clay batik), which use clay as dye for the fabric. The
fabric is immersed in clay for more than 1 day and later designed with motifs
of animal and flora. The Batik from Bengkulu, a city on west coast of Sumatra,
is called Batik Besurek, which literary means "batik with letters" as
they draw inspiration from Arabic calligraphy.
Balinese Batik
Batik making in the island of Bali is relatively new, but a fast-growing industry. Many patterns are inspired by local designs, which are favoured by the local Balinese and domestic tourists. Objects from nature such as frangipani and hibiscus flowers, birds or fishes, and daily activities such as Balinese dancer and ngaben processions or religious and mythological creatures such as barong, kala and winged lion are common. Modern batik artists express themselves freely in a wide range of subjects.
Batik is a technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to whole cloth, or cloth made using this technique. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of the resist with a spouted tool called a canting (Javanese pronunciation satin, also spelled tjanting), or by printing the resist with a copper stamp called a cap (Javanese pronunciation : cap, also spelled tjap). The applied wax resists dyes and therefore allows the artisan to colour selectively by soaking the cloth in one colour, removing the wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colours are desired.
A tradition of making batik is found in various
countries, including Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, India, Bangladesh, Sri
Lanka, Philippines and Nigeria; the batik of Indonesia, however, is the
best-known. Indonesian batik made in the island of Java has a long history of
acculturation, with diverse patterns influenced by a variety of cultures, and
is the most developed in terms of pattern, technique, and the quality of
workmanship.[1] In October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a
Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
The word batik is Javanese in origin. It may either
come from the Javanese word amba ('to write') and titik ('dot'), or may derive
from a hypothetical Proto-Austronesian root *beCík ('to tattoo'). The word is
first recorded in English in the Encyclopædia Britannica of 1880, in which it
is spelled battik. It is attested in the Indonesian Archipelago during the
Dutch colonial period in various forms: mbatek, mbatik, batek and batik.
Wax resist dyeing of fabric is an ancient art form.
It already existed in Egypt in the 4th century BC, where it was used to wrap
mummies; linen was soaked in wax, and scratched using a stylus. In Asia, the
technique was practised in China during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), and in
India and Japan during the Nara Period (645-794 AD). In Africa it was
originally practised by the Yoruba tribe in Nigeria, Soninke and Wolof in
Senegal. These African version however, uses cassava starch or rice paste, or
mud as a resist instead of beeswax.
The art of batik is most highly developed in the
island of Java in Indonesia. In Java, all the materials for the process are
readily available — cotton and beeswax and plants from which different
vegetable dyes are made. Indonesian batik predates written records: G. P.
Rouffaer argues that the technique might have been introduced during the 6th or
7th century from India or Sri Lanka. On the other hand, the Dutch archaeologist
J.L.A. Brandes and the Indonesian archaeologist F.A. Sutjipto believe
Indonesian batik is a native tradition, since another regions in Indonesia such
as Toraja, Flores, Halmahera, and Papua, which were not directly influenced by
Hinduism, have an age-old tradition of batik making.
Rouffaer reported that the gringsing pattern was
already known by the 12th century in Kediri, East Java. He concluded that this
delicate pattern could be created only by using the canting, an etching tool
that holds a small reservoir of hot wax, and proposed that the canting was
invented in Java around that time. The carving details of clothes worn by East
Javanese Prajnaparamita statues from around the 13th century show intricate
floral patterns within rounded margins, similar to today's traditional Javanese
jlamprang or ceplok batik motif. The motif is thought to represent the lotus, a
sacred flower in Hindu-Buddhist beliefs. This evidence suggests that intricate
batik fabric patterns applied with the canting existed in 13th-century Java or
even earlier.
In Europe, the technique was described for the
first time in the History of Java, published in London in 1817 by Stamford
Raffles, who had been a British governor for Bengkulu, Sumatra. In 1873 the
Dutch merchant Van Rijckevorsel gave the pieces he collected during a trip to
Indonesia to the ethnographic museum in Rotterdam. Today the Tropenmuseum
houses the biggest collection of Indonesian batik in the Netherlands. The Dutch
and Chinese colonists were active in developing batik, particularly coastal
batik, in the late colonial era. They introduced new patterns as well as the
use of the cap (copper block stamps) to mass-produce batiks. Displayed at the
Exposition Universelle at Paris in 1900, the Indonesian batik impressed the
public and artists.
In the 1920s, Javanese batik makers migrating to Malaya (now Malaysia) introduced the use of wax and copper blocks to its east coast.
In the 1920s, Javanese batik makers migrating to Malaya (now Malaysia) introduced the use of wax and copper blocks to its east coast.
In
Subsaharan Africa, Javanese batik was introduced in the 19th century by Dutch
and English traders. The local people there adapted the Javanese batik, making
larger motifs with thicker lines and more colours. In the 1970s, batik was
introduced to Australia, where aboriginal artists at Erna Bella have developed
it as their own craft.
Technique
A tjanting is made from a small copper reservoir with a spout on a wooden handle. The reservoir holds the resist which flows through the spout, creating dots and lines as it moves. For larger patterns, a stiff brush may be used. Alternatively, a copper block stamp called a cap (Javanese pronunciation : cap; old spelling tjap) is used to cover large areas more efficiently.
After the cloth is dry, the resist is removed by
boiling or scraping the cloth. The areas treated with resist keep their
original colour; when the resist is removed the contrast between the dyed and
undyed areas forms the pattern. This process is repeated as many times as the
number of colours desired.
The most traditional type of batik, called batik
tulis (written batik), is drawn using only the canting. The cloth need to be
drawn on both sides and dipped in a dye bath three to four times. The whole
process may take up to a year; it yields considerably finer patterns than
stamped batik.
Many Indonesian batik patterns are symbolic.
Infants are carried in batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring
the child luck, and certain batik designs are reserved for brides and
bridegrooms, as well as their families. Some designs are reserved for
royalties, and even banned to be worn by commoners. Consequently, a person's
rank could be determined by the pattern of the batik he or she wore. Further
study to the geometry of symbolism in Indonesian batik showed the applicability
of fractal geometry in traditional designs.
Batik garments play a central role in certain
Javanese rituals, such as the ceremonial casting of royal batik into a volcano.
In the Javanese naloni mitoni ceremony, the mother-to-be is wrapped in seven
layers of batik, wishing her good things. Batik is also prominent in the tedak
siten ceremony when a child touches the earth for the first time.
In October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesian batik
as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. As part of the
acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve its heritage. The day,
October 2, 2009 has been stated by Indonesian government as National Batik Day,
as also at the time the map of Indonesian batik diversity by Hokky Situngkir
was opened for public for the first time by the Indonesian Ministry of Research
and Technology.
The popularity of batik in Indonesia has varied.
Historically, it was essential for ceremonial costumes and it was worn as part
of a kebaya dress, commonly worn every day. The use of batik was already
recorded in the 12th century, and the textile has become a strong source of
identity for Indonesians crossing religious, racial and cultural boundaries.
The batik industry of Java flourished from the late
1800s to early 1900s, but declined during the Japanese occupation of Indonesia.
With increasing preference of western clothing, the batik industry further
declined following the Indonesian independence. Batik has somewhat revived at
the turn of the 21st century, through the efforts of Indonesian fashion
designers to innovate batik by incorporating new colours, fabrics, and
patterns. Batik has become a fashion item for many Indonesians, and may be seen
on shirts, dresses, or scarves for casual wear; it is a preferred replacement
for jacket-and-tie at certain receptions. Traditional batik sarongs are still
used in many occasions.
After the UNESCO recognition for Indonesian batik
on 2 October 2009, the Indonesian administration asked Indonesians to wear
batik on Fridays, and wearing batik every Friday has been encouraged in
government offices and private companies ever since. 2 October is also
celebrated as National Batik Day in Indonesia. Batik had helped improve the
small business local economy, batik sales in Indonesia had reached Rp 3.9
trillion (US$436.8 million) in 2010, an increase from Rp 2.5 trillion in 2006.
The value of batik exports, meanwhile, increased from $14.3 million in 2006 to
$22.3 million in 2010.
Batik is also popular in the neighbouring countries
of Singapore and Malaysia. It is produced in Malaysia with similar, but not
identical, methods to those used in Indonesia. Prior to UNESCO's recognition
and following the 2009 Pendet controversy, Indonesia and Malaysia disputed the
ownership of batik culture. However, Dr Fiona Kerlogue of the Horniman museum
argued that the Malaysian printed wax textiles, made for about a century, were
quite a different tradition from the "very fine" traditional
Indonesian batiks produced for many centuries.